reflections from Palestine

Well, it's been a little while since I've updated this, partly because I knew it would be difficult. Our time here in Beit Sahour (just next to Bethlehem) and throughout much of the West Bank has been a time of great insight, heavy information, holy sites, troubling stories, and mixed emotions. I also sit here unsure how to convey these things, so I will tell some stories and share some information. I will not attempt nor succeed at sharing the Palestinian story and struggle, but I encourage you to read a document written by Christian Churches in Palestine that is a wonderful document explaining briefly about the state of things, how the Christian faith, hope, and love affect the view and means of working at this conflict, and the call that Christians have to everyone around the world. It is called the Kairos document, and takes its origins from the South African Kairos document against apartheid. Even if you don't read the rest of my blog, please read this, sign it if you agree, and pass it on to others, since we as Americans and a part of the international community need to help our fellow brothers and sisters on all sides of the conflict. The document can be found in several languages at www.kairospalestine.ps under the "documents" link (it's called "Moment of Truth").

Our program here has been designed by Alternative Tourism Group, a great group that designs tours in Palestine to show all parts of the real Palestine, not just holy sites. We have had many lectures on history, literature, relations, and religions, and we start each day with Arabic lessons, which has been going pretty well overall. It's fun to try to use some with the host family or at the market, since that's the best way to learn the language. We have seen some great places, like the Church of the Nativity; Shepherd's field; the cities of Nablus, Jericho, East Jerusalem, and Hebron; hiking the Wadi Qelt down into Jericho; Solomon's pools in Hortus, where Song of Song's was written; and the Tent of Nations. We have stayed in Occupied Palestinian Territories, just as Palestinians have to, but we move within it a lot easier than they do because we are tourists. I have walked to Bethlehem several times since it is so close, and attended a service at the Church of the Nativity, went to a grotto, and felt great peace within that city, even in the midst of such unrest.

Checkpoints: we have had to wait at a couple because the Israeli soldiers close them sometimes for no reason. So sometimes we get out of the bus and play hacky sack since it can be over an hour. These are checkpoints within the West Bank, so there does not seem to be really any reason for the closures. The Palestinians say it depends on the soldiers' moods.

Settlements: Places where Israelis live within Palestine, generally on hilltops to strategically get more land. We visited some and there is one that I see from my kitchen window. Some settle there because Israel gives less expensive housing to live there, and those settlers are often oblivious to what is happening. Other Zionist settlers go to settlements to claim land for Israel, and tend to be more extreme. An example is when we visited Hebron, where the Old City feels like a ghost town because settlers came in, took over houses, and made the Old City a settlement. The few Palestinians who live there are harrassed and threatened, and our time there was very intense. Just hearing the stories and seeing the awful state of the city made us cry. But many stay strong on principle to resist the occupation.

Separation Wall: We have gone to this wall that separates Israel from Palestine, although since it falls within the West Bank actually, it more often separates Palestinians from Palestinians or snakes around settlements to one day make it a part of Israel. This wall is over 700km long, and often 25 feet high. At one point, we sang "Inside these walls, freedom come" (see lyrics below). This song has such meaning here as the cry to be released from this occupation and walling-in is so great.

There are other major problems here like refugees and the "sharing" of Jerusalem and land in general, but I didn't even want to have talked about politics this much, so I won't.

But the people here are so hospitable. They welcome us wholeheartedly, and are so different from the general portrayal of Arabs in the media. Yes there are extremists, but there are extremists on all sides. We have wrestled with understanding both sides and finding problems and faults with both. Ultimately, there needs to be peace and justice, it's just the way to achieve that and the actual result has not been agreed on.

So, where can one find hope? It's here. There are organizations and groups that are working against house demolition, or working on advocacy and awareness like the Alternative Information Center which is a Israeli-Palestinian NGO right next door. And as one priest who spoke to us said: "We [Christians] are a people of the Resurrection and we will never lose hope. So we work for that and need your help, solidarity, and prayers." Without faith, I think this situation here would be very depressing. But they are living and resisting, and just as in many points in history, the wall will fall and peace will come, inshallah (God willing).

So to wrap up, time here has been wonderful. My mind has been running with thoughts and emotions, and we have talked through these injustices. There is no easy solution, and we have a lot to learn as we continue on our trip and through Israel next. I pray to continue to be open to seeing more facets of this situation, to be as unbiased as possible, and to learn my role. Lessons from this experience will go broader and deeper than just the conflict here, and I hope I have been able to paint a small part of the picture of what I've experienced so far.


Inside these walls, freedom come.
Come one and all, freedom come.
Come for the healing, we will pray for healing.
Come for the victory, we will share the victory.
Halleluia.

Inside these wall, healing come.
Come one and all, healing come.
Come with your burden, we will share your burden.
Come with your sorrow, we will share your sorrow.
Bring your burden, sing it away, halleluia.

Inside these walls, Jesus come.
Come one and all, Jesus come.
Come if you're guilty, we are all guilty.
Come for forgiveness, we all need forgiveness.
Bring your anger, sing it away, halleluia.